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Antiques Tricks Of The TradeLearn some of the tips, secrets and tricks of the Antiques Trade.Removing Porcelain Stains Is it Bakelite? Barometers Antique Baths Antique Decanters Antique Dolls Antique Drinking Glass Antique Teddy Bears Antique Costume Jewellery Antique Longcase Clocks Cleaning Silver Candelsticks Repairing a Tear Old Book Replacing a Loose Leaf of an Old Book Cleaning Tarnished Silver Cutlery Cleaning Antique Linen Repair Cracked China Mending Broken Plates Repair Surface Chips Repair a broken cup handel How to camouflage scratches in Antique furniture Sticky Drawers Heat and Water Stains Cleaning Wood Getting Rid of Woodworm Removing Porcelain StainsSome stains on porcelain can be removed by applying cotton wool swabs soaked in a solution of 20-volume hydrogen peroxide and a few drops of ammonia. The swabs should be left in position for an hour or two, but not allowed to dry out. Place the object in a plastic bag to retain the moisture and check from time to time to see if the swabs need re-soaking. This solution should not be applied to pieces with a gilt or lustre decoration. Never be tempted to soak stained pieces in household bleach, as this may give a good result initially but will eventually lead to yellowing. Calgon, however, is safe for soaking appropriate pieces.Is it Bakelite?The soapy smell test: rub the Bakelite with a damp finger - you should be able to smell carbolic. The hot pin test: if a hot pin penetrates the material, it isn't Bakelite. Colour and weight: Bakelite is normally black or brown and weighs more than most plastics. Looking after Bakelite. Keep it out of daylight which causes fading and, every now and again, give it a rub over with some silver or brass polish and that'll keep it happy.BarometersThe trouble with barometers is, they're scientific instruments, there's often something wrong with them,it's going to need some attention. Have it professionally restored. Now here's some pointers on what to look for. Make sure you open up the back of the barometer, you'll often find air bubbles in the mercury and the tube may have broken. It can be fixed but it will cost extra. The pediment often gets chipped or broken. To disguise it, this one's been shaved down. Watch for chips to the veneer, replaced thermometers and damage to the silvering around the bezel, this can be caused by over-cleaning or neglect. When you've acquired your barometer, don't hang it over a radiator, the reasons are obvious.Antique BathsNever buy a cast iron bath without its original feet. If you're having a bath restored, get a specialist to coat the inside with urethane enamel. The finish should be smooth and glossy. Make sure the fittings are complete. Finding spares could give you a real headache. Watch out for unusual plumbing. For the period feel original taps are best, but be sure they work. Buy a reconditioned pair or high quality reproductions. Remember these baths can weigh as much as 14cwt when they're filled, so make sure your bathroom can take it. And last of all - don't forget to try it out for size.Antique DecantersRemember the stopper must fit the decanter and it must also be the original stopper. With a Georgian example, put your finger inside the neck of the decanter. If you can feel the grip rings on the inside, it's a 20th-century copy. Don't be fobbed off when somebody tells you that a cloudy or opaque decanter can be washed out. It can't. It's a specialist job to clean them - they actually need re-polishing. Most important of all, never buy a decanter that has cracks.Look very, very carefully: small cracks can be very hard to find. A crack, no matter how small, is the kiss of death. It will grow larger and eventually the decanter will just break. And, if you've ever wondered whether a decanter will take a full bottle of wine, don't worry. Wine always used to be sold by the pint and your decanter should hold two full pints with room to breathe. Over time and use decanters become stained, leaving a brown murky appearance to the glass. To wash away the tarnish is surprisingly simple. You will need a jug, some denture cleaning solution, and a funnel. Dissolve the denture cleaner in a jug of water as per instructions, making sure the water is only warm. Using a funnel pour the solution into the decanter. The water will bubble and fizz indicating that the cleaning process has begun. Leave for up to six hours. Shake the decanter thoroughly but carefully, making sure you wash out any remains of the denture solution. Next you'll need a bucket, some towels and a dry warm place like an airing cupboard. Line the bucket with the towels, and place the decanter in it upside down. This allows all the water to drain away. Leave in the airing cupboard to dry out. Ensure the decanter is dry before replacing the stopper. It's now ready for use. Antique DollsIn the early 1900s, the Germans became major players in doll manufacturing. One of the finest firms was Kämmer & Reinhardt. These were character dolls, based on real children. When they were first issued in 1908, they were a flop because everyone thought they looked too real. Today, they're very, very popular With a bisque face doll, rub your teeth very gently on the face. It should feel rather gritty and sandy. If it feels plastic and smooth, it's a fake. Never expose a waxed headed doll to sunlight - the results can be disastrous Have a good sniff. Most of these dolls have been stored in boxes in attics and they should smell a little bit musty. And finally, if you want to buy an antique doll, go to a registered doll dealer and get a proper guarantee.Antique Drinking GlassThe Georgian period produced the finest drinking Glasses. Early 18th-century wine glasses are very heavy. The crystal was made with a high proportion of lead oxide making the glass highly suitable for fine cut, engraved decoration. The ingredients consisted of three parts silica, two parts red lead, one part potash, a pinch of saltpetre, borax and arsenic. In 1745 the government imposed a tax on glass makers. They were burning a huge amount of wood to produce lead glass and the timber was much needed for ship building. The glass industry changed their manufacturing processes to avoid the heavy taxes, producing much lighter styles of glass, known as balustroids.As the 18th century progressed, craftsmen combined lightweight qualities with enough decoration to appeal to the tastes of wealthy buyers. They invented the air twist stem. Get hold of them and feel them - the glass should feel heavy, that's because of the lead content The feet should be larger than the bowl And the glass should ring Most important, when you buy glasses, never buy damaged or chipped - they must be perfect. When you buy a modern wine glass, the resale value plummets the second you walk out of the shop door. With an antique glass, it holds its value and, over time, it may even appreciate. Antique Teddy BearsWho made the first one? It was either Steiff in Germany or Ideal in the United States Between the wars, teddies became the cuddly figures we know so well, with shorter muzzles and limbs. have a good look at it for genuine signs of wear: look at the places where you would hold the bear and where it should be worn; look in the leg joints to see how strong the original colour of the fur is. Look at the bear's face - could anyone have faked it or has it got real character? Another trick is the sniff test - not many people are going to be able to fake 50 years of rice pudding and orange juice down the tummy. You can identify the Steiff bear by the small button in the left ear.Antique Costume JewelleryCostume jewellery was at its height during the 1930s. Real gems cost a fortune so it made good sense to turn to mass-produced brass and glass, because that's all it really is. It's called "costume" jewellery because it's made out of non-precious metals and glass stones. First, is it signed and is the signature genuine? If you've any doubt, check with a reputable dealer. Second, look at the way it's been put together - is the electroplating smooth and shiny? Whatever you do, don't put your jewellery near dampness or water - it'll tarnish the metal and discolour the stones. Don't let it anywhere near perfume, lacquer and soap.Antique Longcase ClocksWith long-case clocks you must always look out for signs of a marriage. This is when the dial or movement which should belong to a clock has been replaced with another. These are not marriages made in Heaven. The tell-tale signs are excessive packing under the seat board... And when the hood goes back on, your likely to see a clear gap between the face and the hood. A marriage makes a clock almost worthless for investment and divorce is the only remedy. An interesting thing with English clocks is they always have the maker's name and location on the dial.It is also important to look for special features like strike - silent, which when turned to silent at night will turn off the chime. Features like this can add value. Always ask for the hands to be turned through a full rotation to check the movement. Look out for features like the strike - silent. Look for signs of a marriage. Check the plinth has not been cut down as this could reduce the value. Bear in mind that 8 day movements are more valuable than 30 hour ones... and that brass dials are more highly prized than painted ones. Cleaning Silver CandelsticksCandlesticks which are frequently used can build up a thick body of wax. Never try to hack off the wax with a knife. There is a simple solution. Remove the candle and put the candlestick in the freezer. Leave for half an hour - no longer. Then take the candlestick out of the freezer. The wax will have hardened considerably, making it easy to remove. Buff up with a polishing cloth if necessary.Repairing a Tear Old BookHere's a quick way of repairing a tear in a favourite old book. You'll need some heat reactive repair paper available from art shops, some fine glass paper and a clean iron set at a cool temperature. Place a piece of cardboard under the torn page, tear off a piece of repair paper and place over the tear to cover it completely. Iron until the paper has bonded to the tear and the text is visible underneath. Sand off the rough edges around the page and repeat the entire process on the reverse side of the tear.Replacing a Loose Leaf of an Old BookHere's a painless way of replacing a loose page in a book. Set the kettle to boil. Take a couple of spoonfuls of plain flour. Sieve on to a plate or bowl and mix with water from the kettle. Mix to a thick paste. Fold a sheet of waste paper diagonally to make a straight edge. Put the loose page on some newspaper and position the straight edge to leave 5mm of page showing. Dab on your paste using a stiff brush. Place back into the book and press down using the back of a teaspoon. Close the book and put a heavy weight on top. Leave for at least two hours.Cleaning Tarnished Silver CutleryHere’s a simple and economical way to clean tarnished silver cutlery. Put the kettle on to boil, get out some ordinary kitchen soda crystals and line a washing up bowl with aluminium foil. Ensure each piece of cutlery touches the foil. Add the soda crystals. Add boiling water. The mixture will begin to bubble - don’t worry. Leave for at least half an hour. The mixture should turn white and frothy. Rinse the silver under the cold water tap, and at this stage it can be finished off with a silver foam polish, if desired. Once dried, the silver is ready to be used. Buff it up with a silver polishing cloth for an extra shine.Cleaning Antique LinenTo Clean Antique linen you'll need a bowl, some pre-soaking granules and cold water. Fill the bowl with water...sprinkle the granules... making sure you mix thoroughly. Immerse both articles into the bowl...leave to soak overnight. Rinse thoroughly in cold water. The coffee stain should have disappeared, but wine can be more stubborn. If the fabric can handle a more aggressive clean then - you'll need some washing powder which you add to a pan of hot water, immerse the article and boil for 10 minutes.Remove from the pan and rinse thoroughly making sure you wash out all the detergent. Now place the antique fabric into a pillow slip - this protects it and place in a washing machine for a short spin. Wipe clean your washing line and hang the articles using clean plastic pegs. Leave to dry naturally...and iron on a medium heat. If you want to store the antique fabrics away, wrap them in linen and keep in a cool dry place. Repair Cracked ChinaTo mend a crack in your antique plate, put your oven on a very low heat. Place the cracked plate, cup or whatever in it to get warm, but not hot. Meanwhile take some epoxy resin glue - the type that comes in two tubes. Squeeze a worm of glue from each tube onto a flat surface... Mix together well, using a match stick or small piece of wood. Dip the gluey stick into a pot of paint powder which matches the colour of the china. This will ensure that when dry the glue won't appear yellowy, but matches the colour of the china.Mix into the glue - not too much or the mixture will become too dry. Take the cracked item from the oven using oven gloves. The crack will have opened slightly due to the heat. Immediately fill the crack with the gluey mixture. Place masking tape across the crack to support the join. As the china cools down, it will contract, pulling the glue into the crack. Leave overnight to dry out. If any hardened glue remains chip it away using half a razor blade. Protect your fingers by sticking masking tape over one edge. Your china is now solid, and will not crack further. Mending Broken PlatesTo mend a broken plate ensure the break is clean and dry. Take some epoxy resin glue - it comes in two tubes. Squeeze a worm of glue from each tube on to a flat surface. Mix together well, using a matchstick or small piece of wood. Dip the gluey stick into a pot of white paint powder - available from any good art shop. This will ensure that when dry, the glue will blend with the colour of the china. Mix thoroughly until it is smooth. Apply to one edge of the break only. Join the break together. Place masking tape at right angles to the break, pulling the join together. Secure the plate. Leave for 24 hours for the glue to harden. Remove the masking tape. To remove excess dried glue, take half a razor blade and chip it away. Protect your fingers by covering half the blade in masking tape. The crockery is now ready for use.Repair Surface ChipsTo repair a surface chip first you will need milliput - a form of modelling putty which you can buy from an Art shop, and some baby powder. Protect your working surface with a sheet of paper. Milliput comes in two packs - take equal quantities from each and roll the clay into a ball. Keep rolling until the two colours have fused. You may need to apply powder to your fingers if they get sticky. Apply to the chip and fill in. Make circular motions using a little powder to create a smooth surface.Leave to cure for six hours. Next you will need sandpaper, make sure it's a fine 00/F2 grade. Rub gently until the Milliputt is flush with the surface taking care not to damage the existing glaze or decoration. Take a fine paintbrush, acrylic paint to match, some glaze and a toothpick. Squeeze out the paints onto a plate and add a teaspoon of glaze. Take a toothpick and add small amounts of paint to the glaze until you have the desired colour. Apply a thin coat and leave to dry for four hours. If you wish you can apply a clear coat of glaze to give you a glossy finish. Repair a broken cup handelTo repair a broken cup handel you'll need some araldite - a household adhesive which you can buy from a DIY shop and some Titanium dioxide powder which you can find in an art shop or chemist. You will also need an old tile, cotton buds and a toothpick. Squeeze out equal quantities from each of the tubes of araldite onto a clean tile. Using the cocktail stick, mix the two together thoroughly. Take a toothpick and add a few grains of titanium dioxide. Blend this in with the araldite. Next you'll need some plasticine and some gummed paper tape.Place the cup on a tile and secure with plasticine. Using the cotton bud apply the araldite to one side of the broken surface only. Stick the broken handle back in its original position. Cut a narrow piece of gummed paper strip and immerse it in a cup of water. Thread the strip through the handle -sticky side up - cross over the top and stick to the side of the cup. The tape must come at least two thirds around the sides. As the strip dries the handle is pushed firm against the cup. Dip a cotton bud into some surgical spirit and clean up the area. It'll need 24 hours to dry and 3 days to harden. After that, remove the gummed paper by dampening it with water. How to camouflage scratches in Antique furnitureYou'll need some acrylic paint - the colour burnt umber - a very fine paint brush, hard wax and some kitchen paper. Squeeze a worm of acrylic paint, wet the paintbrush, take a small amount of paint, mix it to a light consistency, paint into the scratch and wait for it to dry - about 15 minutes. Rub in the hard wax, take kitchen paper and buff over the scratch - a smooth surface restored.Sticky DrawersFor an easy remedy all you need is some candle wax. After emptying the drawer, pull it right out. Turn it over and clean the sides with a soft cloth. Take the candle wax and rub along the sides of the drawer. The wax acts as a lubricant. Ease the drawer back into the chest - make sure you don't overload it. It's as easy as that - you now have smooth running drawers.Heat and Water StainsTo deal with stains, take a very mild steel wool, 0000 is the sort to look out for. It should feel like soft cotton wool. You can buy this from any good hardware store. Lubricate the mild steel wool with a soft wax polish and rub on to the stain. Rub until the stain has disappeared or been greatly reduced and buff with kitchen paper.Cleaning WoodTake a roll of kitchen paper, tear off enough for a cloth-size bundle and then moisten the paper with some warm water, not too much. Take an ordinary bar of cosmetic soap and rub onto the paper. Carefully wipe the furniture checking each time for dirt. Carry on until there's no dirt on the cloth. Dry the wood with a soft rag or tea towel. Take some antique wax polish - make sure it's got no solvents or oils in - and rub on. Leave for an hour, to let the wax work in to the wood. Buff and admire until the next time.Getting Rid of WoodwormTell-tale signs of woodworm are crumb like deposits called frass, near the holes. For smaller pieces of furniture there's a remedy. You'll need a stick of hard wax, brown paper - an envelope will do - a bin liner and a soft cloth. Take the furniture and place in the bin liner. Suck all the air out of the bag. Place in a fridge-freezer to kill the worm and any larvae, leave for three days and then take out of the freezer. To fill in the holes, take the stick of hard wax and rub. Tear the envelope, or brown paper and push the wax in firmly and then finish off with a soft cloth.United
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