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Useful tips for cleaning antique jewellery
Without Damaging The Precious Metals, Stones And Jewels.
Firstly, although this is slightly off topic for this article, can I offer
one tip that will enable you to enjoy your jewellery for many, many years?
Then, if the worst happens and your beautiful items are stolen in a burglary,
you will stand the best chance of getting them back.
United
Kingdom Antiques Dealer.
Looking to sell your Antiques?
Abacus Antiques buy deceased estate and unwanted antiques. House Clearance.
Best prices paid. We cover the following areas: ENGLAND SCOTLAND & WALES
email = northernclearance@yahoo.co.uk or FREEPHONE
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PHOTOGRAPHS
of all your jewellery are a thousand times more useful than a worded description
in a police report. They don't have to be top quality pictures like an instore
catalogue, just good enough to identify them in a line-up. This has proven
to be the single, most important thing you can do, to recover your valuables.
That's it! My top anti-burglary and insurance claim tip.
The Care
and Cleaning of Gold, Silver and Platinum
Gold and silver are malleable and ductile, chemically stable by themselves
and can be recycled and remodelled into a multitude of items. Gold retains
its lustre over prolonged periods and will not chip, flake or corrode.
Highly polished silver is the best reflector of light and retains its
strength despite distortion. Unfortunately, this does not mean that either
of them are indestructible.
Gold
Gold is measured in carats and is an indication of its purity. Most of
us discover the importance of gold ranges when we get married, and the
choices are usually from 9 carats (9ct), 18ct, 22ct and 24ct. However,
the purer the gold, the softer it is, until, in its purest form of 24
carats, it becomes one of the softest metals known.
Purer gold
scratches and buckles easily with any kind of abrasion or force and so
is best removed to do work which might damage it. Equally, several rings
on the same finger can often be the cause of a ring suffering deep scratches
or wear, particularly if they are of different carats and perhaps one
or more containing even harder substances like diamonds.
Surprisingly
enough, most gold jewellery can be cleaned in warm soapy water, and any
angular areas around stones or the back of the item, which may be indented,
can be reached with an old soft toothbrush, dipped in the soapy solution.
Gold also responds to a light rubbing with a rouge-impregnated cloth,
which gives it a shine, available in most supermarkets, but high carat
golds shouldn't need it.
18ct gold
and higher, will not usually suffer from discolouration or tarnish and
isn't harmed by contact with household chemicals. However, bleach and
other cleaning products WILL damage lower carat golds as they aren't so
pure (being alloys of metals) and are therefore much more prone to attack
by corrosive chemicals.
Storing
Silver
When putting silver into storage, it's not necessary to clean or polish
it. After prolonged storage, it will need cleaning anyway. Don't use ordinary
newspaper to wrap the silver, nor use elastic bands to bind several pieces
together. After a while the rubber will bond to the silver as the band
deteriorates and rots, leaving a stain, as will newspaper. Instead, use
acid-free paper to wrap items and store where it's not damp.
Slightly tarnished
sterling silver will easily renew to a bright polish by simply rubbing
or buffing with a soft cloth. When an item is heavily tarnished then a
proprietary silver cleaning solution, such as Goddard's Silver Dip will
always do the trick.
To remove
heavy tarnish there are many liquids and creams available that are rubbed
or smeared on and polished off again with a soft cloth. Many have names
that include the terms, "long term", "tarnish resistant"
or "long shine". This means they contain a chemical that leaves
a protective layer on the silver, which reduces its direct contact with
the air. Cutlery should therefore be washed thoroughly before use.
A WARNING
ABOUT SILVER PLATE! Always use the least abrasive option when dealing
with silver plate. Over enthusiastic rubbing will remove the silver to
reveal the base metal, especially on external corners and the rims of
lids etc. Any trip to any antiques fair will reveal many, many items that
have suffered this fairly tragic fate, which can be expensive to repair.
The Care
and Cleaning of Diamonds and Gemstones
Perhaps the
most important thing to bear in mind here is the potential for loss. Always
use a bowl of water to clean your jewellery, not the sink. If you stand
the bowl in the sink, put the plug in first, and don't remove it again
until you're sure you've got all the pieces you started with. It might
sound obvious, but you wouldn't believe how much jewellery goes down the
drain!
Firstly, check
the gemstone or diamond is secure in its claw mounting. Hold the item
in one hand and use a fingernail to just touch the diamond. If it's loose
you'll see it rock or move. This will need to be repaired by your jeweller
first, who will tighten the claws. An old soft toothbrush and warm soapy
water is ideal to remove the grease, dust, grit and dead skin that fills
the gaps and indentations around the stone anchors of a ring or other
item of jewellery. This works equally well for almost all types of gemstone,
including, ruby, emerald and sapphire.
A gentle brush, even an artists brush is infinitely preferable to using
a cloth from which threads can be snagged and pulled. If a thread gets
caught in a claw, it can bend or weaken the grip of the claw and stones
can be lost weeks or months later.
Once again
check the stone for movement, just to make sure it wasn't the dirt holding
it in place. It should now be gleaming again with a nice new sparkle!
BE AWARE!
That some stones are quite 'soft' and others are particularly absorbent.
Gemstones that fall into this category are; pearls, ivory, coral, turquoise,
opal and amber. Care must be exercised when cleaning not to scratch them
or leave them soaking. They are also best stored in separate compartments
of a jewellery box.
The Care
and Cleaning of Pearls
Pearls are
of particular concern because any damage usually results in discolouration
and/or a reduction of lustre. They can be affected by perfume, hairspray,
deodorant creams and sprays, makeup, skin lotions and nail polish remover.
Put pearls on AFTER using any of these products and after sufficient drying
time for sprays and creams. Just wipe your pearls off with a soft damp
cloth before putting them away, so that any residue doesn't remain to
damage them in storage.
General
Safeguards
Whilst your jewellery is not being worn, it is best stored in a lined
box or soft pouch, similar too, if not the one you had, when the item
was purchased. Necklaces shouldn't be allowed to become tangled and metal
or diamonds can easily scratch other metals or plate, just by being next
to each other.
This can ruin or dull a polished surface very quickly, with the obvious
disappointment and loss in value that will be the result.
I also would
advise against wearing your jewellery whilst gardening, doing housework,
or playing any kind of sport, in particular swimming. Jewellery is particularly
susceptible to damage from the effects of chemicals present in perfume,
hairspray, nail polish remover and deodorant.
If a lost ring or earring is trodden into the lawn, it can be a hundred
years before it's found. Likewise, rings can all too easily slip off soapy
or sweaty hands and be lost forever.
Your local
swimming baths are especially destructive to expensive jewellery as the
chlorine found in the water can cause surface damage. Gold and silver
hate chlorine which was an active ingredient introduced during the refining
process to separate the base metals in the melting crucible.
I apoligise to our American friends
who will object to my spelling of jewelry as jewellery. We must in this
instance agree to differ and blame it on the pond. Thanks :-)
Author: Phil
Chave: http://www.antiquecollector.uk.com
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